Growing Eggplant in Greenhouse

March 11th, 2010

If you are one of those people who greatly love the delicious taste derived from eggplants then the option of growing eggplant in greenhouse will surely be a sensational choice to consider. There are many types in which eggplants come and they consist of various sizes and shapes. One of the most like varieties of eggplant is black beauty which is greatly popular for the wonderful taste that is provided by this fruit. Growing eggplants in greenhouse will produce output which tastes several times better than the eggplants which are available in malls. You can enjoy freshly handpicked eggplants that will be rich in nutrients and also providing fabulous taste.

Getting started

Eggplants can be grown either with seeds or by planting the plant that is purchased from the nursery that is near to your home. When you are growing plant with the help of seeds then it is essential that the seeds are sowed in a portable plant. This process should be initiated about 5 to 7 weeks before the final frost of the season. The suitable environment conditions that are required to grow eggplant inside greenhouse may range from 75 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. At the above range of temperature the germination of seed will be well assisted and development of healthy sapling is greatly possible. Another important requirement for this plant is that it requires good level of sunshine. Hence it is required to place the pot near the place which allows good access to sunshine. It will also be good if there some ventilation holes that is provided in the design of greenhouse since it will ensure that proper level of air circulation prevails inside the structure.

Covering with grass

When the plant is about to develop it is well advised to scatter grasses for about 1 to 2 inches near the base of the plant since it will help in keeping the plant in warm condition which will enhance the growth and quality of plant. The soil should be sufficiently covering the plant and the desired pH level of plant should lie within the range of 5 to 7. if the soil pH level does not lie in this then it is required to make proper adjustment to reach this mark. The eggplants should surely be treated with sunlight that will suffice enough to carry out various activities in a day.

Supplying with sufficient water

Eggplants require sufficient level of water such that they are able to satisfy full growth of plants. Since these plants require higher water it is necessary to create a dedication section in greenhouse such that there is proper nutrients supply which is being provided. Other vegetable plants which require lesser amount of water should be placed away from eggplant. Water can be supplied through various drip irrigation method to satisfy the exclusive water requirement of this plant.

Thus growing eggplant in greenhouse will be a simple task provides you are aware about the various methods and tips that are essential to grow quality plants.

Agriculture Guide from Eggplant section. You may want to look at Cultivation of Eggplant here. Also look Growing Eggplant in Your Own Greenhouse .

What Flowers Can Grow Well in a Rock Filled Flower Bed?

March 11th, 2010

Rock filled flower beds, or rock flower gardens, have become quite popular in recent years. They make for a lovely decorative feature to the property and they make for a fun hobby. Most plants that do well in a flower rock garden are easy to grow and require very little maintenance. The plants that thrive do so because they tolerate the reflected heat from the rock.

Herbs grow well in rock filled flower beds. Some popular herbs grown in these gardens include: Thyme, Rosemary, and Lavender. They require the soil to be well drained or they can wilt and die. Below is a list of a number of popular flowers that grow well in a rock filled flower bed.

Rock Rose: The Red Rose is one shrub that grows well in rock bed gardens. This plant is a small shrub and the flowers have a saucer shape and are a deep red color. These flowers bloom in the late spring and summer. The leaves are grayish/green and are fairly narrow.

Aster: The Asters, particularly the Alpine Aster are popular rock bed flowers. They bloom in the late summer and fall. The flowers are produced in large clusters and come in a variety of colors that include: pink, red, white, lavender, and purple. They grow as bushy clumps so it is important to create enough space when planting. They can grow in a wide variety of climates. Depending on the temperature, germination can take from 15 to 30 days.

Japanese Barberry: This flower grows well in a rock garden. Small and spiny, it blooms in the spring and has reddish/purple leaves which change to red and orange in the fall. The flowers are a light yellow and then produce small red fruits. These flowers do not do well in really cold climates.

Alpine Columbine: The colors of the flowers of the Alpine Columbine are violet and white and the leaves are bluish-green. As well, these flowers come in a wide variety of hybrid colors and strains. These hardy plants grow well in a variety of climates. They bloom from early May through to June. It is a popular choice for a rock bed garden as they attract hummingbirds.

Primrose: The Primrose blooms early in the spring and comes in a wide variety of colors. They prefer cooler temperatures and do not like the direct sun for long periods of time in the hot summer months. There are a broad variety of Primroses.

Carpet Bugle: The most common color of the Carpet Bugle bloom is bluish-purple, but there also flowers that can be white or rose. It serves as helpful ground cover in a garden. The color of the foliage can range from green to bronze to purple. They bloom from early spring to mid July. It is a great plant to help reduce soil erosion. They survive well during droughts.

Rock filled flower beds are a lovely addition to any home. The key to maintaining a flourishing flower garden is to know what flowers will thrive in the environment and what care is required to keep them healthy and in bloom.

Wide selection of the freshest Brampton florists, roses, orchids and more are available for flower design arrangements. Make your occasion memorable with this Mississauga florists flowers firm.

Hedge Trimmers

March 11th, 2010

The majority of hedges must be clipped after planting, and then cut twice annually ; in spring and late summer. A formal hedge should be trimmed more frequently to maintain its form. A large amount of deciduous plants, particularly those with a naturally fuzzy, low-branching habit should be cut back by 1 Third on planting, as if the evergreens box and shrubby honeysuckle. The effective and upright growers , for example hawthorn and privet, can be cut back to 15 cm ( six in ). The year after, every 1 of these varieties should be clipped gently, and then cut back by one in three in their 2nd winter. Leyland cypress with additional effective conifers are used broadly as hedges. Before you start cutting in is crucial that you just have the right hedge trimmer for that job. If you are only using your trimmer two times a year I could recommend you go with the electrical Trimmers, as they’re less expensive and more cost-effective to fix if anything goes wrong.

It’s hard to judge precisely by eye while you’re trimming a hedge ; it’s only when you have finished off that any errors become plain. Strings attached to 4 posts or canes, 1 at every corner from the hedge and set at the height required, will give a cutting line and assist to control a straight edge. Most hedges are cut with shears or an electrical trimmer, though casual hedges and those with huge evergreen leaves should, where ever practical, be trimmed with secateurs to stop ugly harm to the leaves. You can minimize the probability of a hand coming into contact with the blades by utilizing blade extensions. Should you have got a high and broad hedge you could need 60 cm ( twenty-four in ) blades ; in any other case, 40 cm ( 15 in ) blades are going to be quite suitable.

All hedges need trimming once or more a year, some more often. Normal, light pruning is better for the hedge, and less complicated to do, than scanty large pruning, there is going to be less material to lose. A professionally taken care of hedge offers a good boundary to a garden, but if left unbridled, a hedge can shortly lose its shape and finish up looking untidy or casting unwanted shade. Most hedges should be clipped towards the specified shape prior to the hedge grows to the specified height. Never allow the plants to grow untrimmed towards the final height before shearing ; by that time it’ll be too late to have maximum branching at the base.

If the hedge is not too long, you should be able to cut by eye, treading back occasionally to check your progress. Next, cut the sides, producing the top less wide than the base. Brush off trappings from the apex of hedge and from the base from the hedge to stop the growth of fungal illnesses. Low growing formal hedges utilized for parterres, knot gardens or as borders around plant beds could be kept neat by trimming two times every year. Cut box hedging in spring and then in mid-summer.

Use string extended between 2 stakes to make sure the top is flat and then cut the sides vertically. Though flourishing, nearby and casual hedges are able to develop naturally so that their shape is not spoilt, that doesn’t mean they never need to be trimmed. If neglected they could shortly grow too tall or spread beyond manage. To keep them in fine condition, often remove old stems with secateurs. When planting, cut the plants back by a Third of their height including the robust side shoots. This can prompt low branching. In the Third year, start shaping. Hedges are quite often formed with flat tops and vertical sides.

We offer cheap Hedge Trimmers for your garden.

Invasion Of The Grape Tomato

March 10th, 2010

Once and a while a new vegetable or fruit becomes very popular, such was the case with the hybrid strain of the grape tomato. The original tomato plants produced a plum sized tomato and the only way to make the larger and rounder sizes we are used to today was to cross breed them, making them a hybrid.

Tomatoes were also cross bred to make them smaller, such as the cherry tomato and then even smaller to make the popular grape size tomato. Cherry tomatoes when cut or bit into tended to spray water out of them; they also had thin skins making them a little difficult to work with. The demand for a smaller, meatier and sweeter tomato was what led to the development of the grape tomato.

The grape tomato did meet this demand because it was smaller, had less water in it and was much sweeter. It also had a thicker skin like a Roma tomato. It became so popular it was being used as a snack type food almost like peanuts. One of the first strains to make it to the United States was a strain from Taiwan and this variety was called the Santa F1. Hybrids can only be grown from seed and the seed from the tomato itself will not yield the same plant. It requires the original seed to produce the same tomato plant, creating a high demand for the seed.

A tomatoes origin is an important part of how it’s classified. Tomatoes whose seeds have been openly pollinated and passed down from one generation to the next and have been in circulation at least 50 years would be classified a an heirloom tomato or “heritage” tomato. It is possible for hybrid tomatoes to qualify as heirlooms, but they must be a hybrid of two known heirloom strains and then be openly pollinated for up to 8 years or more to remove the hybridization from the resulting strain.

The grape tomatoes grow in clusters similar to grapes and should be picked as a cluster. However if you pick them when they are green they will not ripen on their own, they need to ripen on the vine. They grow much the same as other tomatoes needing full sun and a rich soil. They should be planted 21/2- 3 feet apart. When watering it is best to deep water them to get down to the roots instead lightly watering everyday. Keeping the water off the leaves will also help prevent fungus from starting. Fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium should be used and applied every 2 weeks.

As they mature they will become quite top heavy and will need to be supported with some sort of support such as a cage. They mature in about 70 days and will not produce fruit when the temperatures are above 95 degrees or below 55 degrees. Blights and fungus can develop when there is high humidity. Grape tomatoes can grown in your garden and also do well in containers.

Doug is an avid gardener and also has a passion for nutrition and fitness. You can view his website at http://www.vegetablegardeningorganic.com

Landscape Lighting Methods

March 6th, 2010

One area of the home that often does not get the level of attention it is worthy of is the yard. Though it is not technically a part of the home, if appropriately lit, it can act almost as an additional room, permitting parties and guests to flow outdoors and to draw attention to your home garden. Outdoor lighting is very important to accent points of interest, such as sculptures, fountains, or ponds.

Outdoor lighting does not need to be as difficult as many homeowners try to make it. A number of homeowners have started placing solar-powered walkway lighting along driveways or paths. These fixtures are energy-efficient and quick to install because there is no wiring involved; instead, the solar panel collects energy from the sun. Though these are much more versatile as to where they can be installed, it must be remembered that the solar panel is required to face the sun so that it may collect the necessary energy. Care must also be exercised with these outdoor lights when maintaining the landscape; these lights should also be taken care of. Cleaning the light fixtures will ensure that the full light generated by the bulb will be seen and mold or mildew will not accumulate. These solar fixtures should be used as accents in gardens and markers for walkways and driveways, but their functionality is limited almost exclusively to that due to their low power.

For large-scale landscape lighting projects, line-voltage fixtures are often the choice. These lighting fixtures get their power from wires that are run though an underground conduit. While these are brighter lights, you lose the convenience to easily move the lights due to the digging and running of underground conduits. This is a good system to use if running higher voltage professional lighting, such as the landscape lighting available from Kichler, along a driveway, which is unlikely to move. Also, these types of systems are generally installed by professionals because of their high voltage.

For those who wish to compose their own outdoor lighting system without the use of a professional, a low-voltage lighting system is the suitable choice. These fixtures are connected to the electrical system of the home, but the electrical hazard is minimized because of the implementation of a transformer. By using this method, the lights will simply turn off if the wires are accidentally cut while digging.

Whichever method you select, remember that the quality of the light fixture has a great impact on the landscape lighting as a whole. Do not waste your hard work in wiring the lights by choosing low-quality lighting fixtures. Manufacturers such as Kichler, Progressive, and Hinkley all offer high quality lights at great prices. By selecting a professional landscape lighting manufacturer, you will also have a broader range of choices when deciding on fixtures to match your landscape design.

By taking the time to carefully plan and implement your landscape design, you will in essence create an extra room to your home. Though this can appear to be a daunting task, by doing your research and turning to professionals when necessary, these lights can last a lifetime and create a welcoming environment in any home garden.

Whether it’s home lighting or outdoor lighting - LightingSale.com is your best option for quality lighting manufacturers.

What is a Garden Trellises and How is it Used in the Garden?

March 6th, 2010

Gardens can be normally recognized as delightful and sacred areas. Because of this, it can be significant to know what you are putting into it. There are many kinds of different garden accessories that contain different functions. One exclusive garden accessory can be the garden trellis.

What Is A Trellis?

A garden trellis is a structure that is employed to hold up different types of plants. You will either tie plants to the trellis or else permit climbers to connect themselves to the structure. A trellis may be built out of horizontal, vertical, or diagonal bars. These bars may either be a regular geometric pattern or can be arranged to create a decorative design. While most trellises are made out of wood, a few are constructed out of metal or else plastic.

With that basic definition of a garden trellis, it is simple to observe that there are many different kinds of garden trellises out there to choose from. One of the first thing you will want to decide is the growth pattern of the plant. A garden trellis that is small will work better for a potted plant whereas a bigger garden trellis will be able to suit the needs of a flowering plant or else a climbing varietal. All these considerations will make it easier when it comes time to build or purchase the trellis. You will want to measure width and height of each of the different spaces that you can be taking into account.

What Material Are Trellises Made Out Of?

After that, you will want to determine on what material you will be thinking on using for your garden trellis. If you will choose to use metal then you have a couple of diverse choices including fatigued, iron, or copper metals. A metal garden trellis that has a polished surface is going to offer you a contemporary appearance and adds a little attraction to a garden. If you choose to employ metal, you will need to keep in mind the heat a metal trellis will generate. Make sure the plant will tolerate such heat from the metal. If the plant can not handle the hot metal, consider using wood as it remains much cooler than metal.

If you will go with a wooden trellis, you will be able to obtain a more natural, casual look to the garden. Wooden lattices offer your garden a country type experience to it and increase the farmhouse setting. Lumber is terrific for simple designs, or carved shapes. When selecting your style, make certain you will consider what kind of lumber you are going to be employing. Some woods will be more simple to carve than others, and various woods are more suitable for outdoor environments.

Where Can You Acquire Trellis Plans?

You might get a hold of trellis plans at some neighborhood garden merchant, or numerous places online. The majority of home improvement centers have both garden trellis pre-fabricated kits, as well as plans on how to design your own. Depending on your skill level along with the amount of time you retain on hand, you can choose between both choices.

You can search the net to find free trellis plans. There are many designs to choose from. A garden trellis is a very simple structure that many d-i-y individuals can accomplish in a couple of hours.

Grass Trimmers

March 1st, 2010

Possibly the commonest domestic version from the strimmer is the electrical grass trimmer. It has the clear advantage over the petrol strimmer of being very light and very straightforward to perform with. The ability to move of the electric grass trimmer makes it the clear choice for most domestic uses. It does have two drawbacks nonetheless. The first is obvious. It is electrical. If you do not recognise where this is going then I will explain. The length from the power cable will restrict the range that the grass trimmer are often used over. This issue could be overcome from the use of extension cables but it is an extra thought that needs to be taken into account. The 2nd downside is perhaps not quite so critical as the first.

The electrical grass trimmer tends to be more affordable than the petrol strimmer. The reason for this is that it is invariably not as robust as the petrol variation. Let’s be clear. The petrol version is, in nearly all cases, the outstanding cutter. But when you do not require your trimmer to cope with big places of dense undergrowth on a regular basis then the electrical strimmer is perfectly acceptable and appropriate.

In general, they are just a little bit more costly than their corded rivals however they have numerous benefits over this kind of grass trimmer, including the pursuing. They are safer to use. The lack of a cable means there is nothing for your to inadvertently strim through while in the garden and so the two you and also the fuse box of one\’s home are less dangerous. You can take a cord less grass trimmer anywhere in the garden, or out of it for that matter. Not being tethered to an electrical power supply means you can take your cord-less strimmer right towards the end of one\’s garden. You can edge the lawns and trim the hedges without having to think about pulling on the cable and breaking the electrics. They are simpler to store when not in use. With a cordless strimmer you don’t have this difficulty, and you don’t have to worry about falling over the cable while it’s laying on the ground.

The three the majority of common types are those that include exchangeable, rechargeable power packs which slot into the strimmer itself, those with power packs that are worn on a belt around the user’s waist and those that use light lithium ion batteries. The first of these three types commonly have a running time of around 60 minutes, which outclasses both from the other choices. Saying that, this kind of cord less grass trimmer can take anything from 7 to 12 hours to fully recharge while a lithium ion battery powered one only takes around 3 to 5 hours in the majority of cases.

Of course each make and model is slightly numerous from the rest with regards to running time, recharging time and battery life, and when choosing a suitable grass trimmer, these factors all have to have to be considered. You may also want to observe how effective they are, the various jobs you can use it for e.g. trimming the edges of lawns, cutting back bushes, hedging, topping off long grass etc. and the method by which it cuts. Some cord less grass trimmers use a nylon line while others have a polymer or metal blade. In general, a cord less strimmer is safer and much easier to use than one with a mains electricity power cable.

The only real problem is that they do require recharging after 30-60 minutes but as they are only made for completing off the gardening then this shouldn’t be a problem. For maintaining the edges on a huge lawn, whacking the difficult weeds around the yard, or for heavy-duty tasks in general, an electrical strimmer merely will never have the power to do the job appropriately. The trouble is though, that gas-powered grass trimmers are next to chain saws, perhaps the the majority of dangerous implement in the gardener’s shed.

We offer Grass Trimmers at our web site.

Muck Boots: The Sturdiest Work Boots Around

February 28th, 2010

Are you are unlucky enough to have to work outside all winter long? Even if you like fresh air, the cold can be a lot to take. Anyone that has ever done any type of outdoor chores knows the importance of having good muck boots. Regular boots just aren’t up to the task. Muck boots are a specific type of boot, one that is waterproof and especially durable, for starters. There are specific muck boots that are designed for equine use, farm work, outdoor chores, fishing, hunting, snowmobiling, camping and other types of outdoor activities. There’s even a perfect outdoor work boot, the Chore Steel Toe Work Boot. These are truly the sturdiest work boots around. And, because most steel toe boots are not waterproof, these boots are even more versatile. Because these boots come in both high and low models, you can find the one that is right for the tasks you need. Muck Boots is the manufacturer that has a boot for every possible outdoor work or play need, one for every type of conditions you will encounter.

When you have a great pair of muck boots, you will be able to wear them in many different situations and conditions. Most types of boots will become quickly ruined in the muddy, messy situations. Not the real Muck Boots! This is a top brand, for several reasons. One thing many customers rave about is that these boots have a solid outer rubber construction, which makes them easy to clean. You won’t have to worry about tracking the mess from the horse stable around, just hose off the boots. Another great feature is the outer construction—it is durable and reinforced in the toe, heel and sole, and will withstand cracking and damage for years. Muck Boots also makes a full line of sandals, clogs and shoes that live up to the same high quality as the boots.

Working outside all winter long can be dangerous enough. Protecting your hands and face from the elements is critical. But, so is protecting your feet. The Chore Steel Toe Work Boots can help keep your feet safe—dropping heavy tools or equipment on your feet won’t result in any serious injury. Plus, these boots will make working outside in the winter less miserable. A good pair of Muck Boots will keep the cold out—some models that are available are insulated to handle up to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Most people would decide to go back inside long before it got that cold. But, even (worst case scenario) if you are stuck outside, at least your feet will still be warm. If you’ve ever had to work outside, you can picture this scenario easily and would probably do anything to avoid it.

Whatever you need to do, whether it be work or play, Muck Boots has a boot that’s perfect for the job. High quality, durable, affordable and comfortable—Muck Boots make any activity better. Don’t risk getting wet, ruining a pair of boots that is not up to the messy tasks, or having your feet become uncomfortably cold!

Don VanPelt is a writer for Muck Boots Direct who has published many articles about boots. Read his comments and recommendations for the best use of Muck Boots Chore steel toed boots at Muck Boots Direct.

Cultivating Acacia and Acanthus Successfully

February 26th, 2010

Acacia are mainly known as greenhouse evergreen flowering shrubs, a greenhouse being necessary in northern European areas.

Some species of the genus Acacia attain the dimensions of moderate trees and are only suit?able for large conservatories. The dwarfer kinds, however, make splendid pot plants for spring and early summer flowering.

In terms of their cultivation Acacias are amongst the most simply managed of hard-wooded greenhouse plants and will thrive in a winter temperature of 45 degrees to 50 degrees. Repotting must be undertaken during the summer months every third or fourth year, using a compost of equal parts turfy loam and horti?cultural peat, together with suffi?cient sharp sand to ensure porosity. The soil must be firmly rammed with a wooden potting stick, but over-potting is to be avoided. On no account must the plants be allowed to suffer from lack of moisture at the roots. All of them are copious drinkers, and large specimens in tub pots or planted out in the greenhouse border must have frequent soakings.

Pruning, which should take place immediately after flowering, consists of judicious thinning and shortening back of loose growths. From early June to October pot specimens should be plunged in an ash bed situated in a sunny corner out of doors to ripen off.

To propagate Acasias seeds sown as soon as ripe in pans of sandy peat offer an easy means of increase and will germinate rapidly in a close tem?perature of 60 degrees. Cuttings can also be made during spring from the tips of the shoots about 3 inches in length. In a propa?gating box where a temperature of 60 degrees to 65 degrees can be maintained they will root in six to eight weeks, when they can be trans?ferred to 3 inch. pots. Half-ripened shoots taken with a heel will also root readily in pots of sandy peat in a shady cold frame.

In contrast the Acanthuses are hardy herbaceous perennials with ornamental foliage.

It is generally supposed that the handsome leaves of Acanthus mollis inspired the ancient Greeks when designing the capitals of the famous Corinthian columns. The foliage is seen at its finest development in the variety known as latifolius.

Acanthuses will grow in any ordinary garden soil and do not object to partial shade, though they will also thrive in full sun. On poor, sandy or stony ground the foliage will not be so well developed or so handsome as when the plants are estab?lished in deep, rich, and somewhat moist loam.

The foliage may be further improved by feeding the plants with weak liquid manure from time to time or giving them a mulch of well-rotted manure in early sum?mer. The best months for planting are October, March, or early April. The plants should always be given ample space so that their foliage may be fully developed. Unlike many perennials, acanthuses do not require transplanting and dividing every second or third year. They should be left to grow un?hindered when established.

Division at planting time affords the simplest method of increase, though seeds germinate quite freely if sown in a warm greenhouse in March or a cold frame in early April.

Ian is very keen on gardening and writes occasional articles, but thinks you might be interested in his new website Dualit 3 Slice Toaster and especially the The 4 Slice Toaster

Growing the Abelia and the Abutilon

February 26th, 2010

The Abelia is a half-hardy flowering shrub, which is both ever?green and deciduous.

The abelias are extremely graceful shrubs flowering in late summer and early autumn. The species Abelia chinensis and Abelia Schu-manni are deciduous, while Abelia floribunda and Abelia grandiflora are evergreen. Of these Abelia grandiflora is probably the hardiest.

In terms of cultivating the Abelia, all thrive in a well-drained loamy soil and are not in the least difficult to grow providing they are not unduly ex?posed to severe frosts during the winter. For this reason they are most suited to the milder parts of the country. Around London, in the Midlands, and in the North abelias should, if possible, be given a sheltered posi?tion, as, for example, a border protected on the north by a wall or hedge. They appre?ciate all the sun they can get, and regular pruning is not necessary, but it is advisable to remove the old flower-heads when they have faded, while an occasional thinning in March to prevent overcrowding will do good.

The deciduous abelias may be planted at any time from late October till early March, but the evergreen should, if possible, be planted rather earlier or later, as the case may be, than this. The ideal timing for them is early October and late April.

Propagating abelias can be done by cuttings about 3 or 4 inches in length of firm young growth will root readily if inserted in very sandy soil or even pure sand in a close frame during July. If in pure sand it is necessary to water very freely until rooted. Alternatively cuttings 9 inches to 12 inches in length prepared from well-ripened young growth can be rooted in a cold frame or even outside in a sheltered border in September.

The Abutilon are greenhouse and half-hardy ever?green shrubs.

One species, Abutilon vitifolium, may be grown outdoors without protection in the milder parts of the country. In exposed dis?tricts it will require some shelter, and even so is liable to be cut to the ground in very severe weather. The other species are grown as greenhouse shrubs or small climbers and are also used for sub-tropical bedding out?doors from June to September,but they still must be in a warm place free from cold winds.

In terms of cultivation the Abutilon vitifolium should be planted in well-drained soil, preferably of a light, loamy character. It must always be given a sunny position. If possible, plants should be purchased in pots so that they may be established with as little root dis-turbance as possible. October and April are suitable months for transplanting. If allowed to grow naturally, this abutilon is apt to get rather leggy and bare at the base, so to correct this the younger shoots should be shortened by about one-third in February.

The greenhouse species and hybrids thrive in a compost of two parts good fibrous loam, one part peat, and a little sand. Abutilon megapotanicum, another vigorous kind, may be planted out in the greenhouse border and trained against the back wall or around one of the roof supports. The less vigorous kinds are best grown in pots and treated as small specimens. The two most important points in the successful culture of abutilons are the provision of adequate drainage and an abun?dant water supply during the summer months. In winter a temperature of from 45 deg. to 50 deg. should be maintained, but during the summer no artificial heat will be necessary. Plants that are to be used for summer bedding should not be put outdoors until the first week in June, as they are sus?ceptible to frost. During late spring and early summer regular applications of weak liquid manure will improve the plants.

The species, including Abutilon vitifolium, may be readily increased by seeds sown during early March in light sandy compost and germinated in a green?house in a temperature of 60 degrees. The garden hybrids do not breed true from seed and must be propagated during the spring or early summer from cuttings of fairly firm side shoots inserted in very sandy soil and rooted in a propagating box with steady bottom heat.

Ian has a great interest in gardening and writes occasional articles. Come and visit his newest website at Krups Coffee Pods, and look particularly at the Coffee Pod Machine